Process for treating keratin fibres with a polysaccharide and a pyridinedi-carboxylic acid compound

Abstract

The invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising: (i) a step of applying an oxidized polysaccharide, (ii) a step of heating to a temperature of at least 100° C., (iii) a step of applying a pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound. The process makes it possible to obtain good hair-conditioning cosmetic properties, with a long-lasting effect. The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition and a kit used for performing the treatment process.

The invention claimed is: 
     
       1. A process for protecting or conditioning keratin fibers, the process comprising:
 (i) applying to the keratin fibers at least one oxidized polysaccharide, wherein the at least one oxidized polysaccharide is chosen from those of formula (I):
   P—(CHO) m (COOX) n   (I)
 
 wherein:
 P represents a polysaccharide chain chosen from celluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluloses, carboxymethylcelluloses, starches, guar gums, inulins, xanthan gums, pullulan gums, agar-agar gums, carrageenan gums, gellan gums, gum arabics, tragacanth gums, xylans and derivatives thereof, cellobiose, maltodextrin, scleroglucan, chitosan, ulvan, fucoidan, alginate, pectin, heparin, or hyaluronic acid, 
 X is chosen from a hydrogen atom, ions derived from an alkali metal or an alkaline-earth metal, sodium ion, potassium ion, ammonia, organic amines, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, basic amino acids, lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, or citrulline, 
 m+n is greater than or equal to 1, 
 m is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide with at least one aldehyde group (DS(CHO)) ranges from about 0.001 to about 2, and 
 n is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide with at least one carboxylic group (DS(COOX)) ranges from about 0 to about 2, 
 
 wherein applying the oxidized polysaccharide comprises applying a cosmetic composition comprising the oxidized polysaccharide in an amount ranging from about 0.2% to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, 
 
 (ii) heating the keratin fibers with an iron at a temperature of at least about 170° C., and 
 (iii) applying to the keratin fibers a pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (II) or salts thereof: 
 
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
         
           wherein:
 R1 and R2, independently, are chosen from OH, OR′, —NH2, —NHR′, or —NR′R″, 
 wherein R′ and R″, independently, are chosen from a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C18 alkyl, optionally substituted with at least one group chosen from OH, C1-C6 alkoxy, C1-C6 acyloxy, amino, (C1-C6)alkyloxycarbonyl, (C1-C6)alkylamino, or C6-C10 aryl, 
 
           wherein applying the pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (II) comprises applying a cosmetic composition comprising compound (II) in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. 
         
       
     
     
       2. The process according to  claim 1 , wherein the at least one oxidized polysaccharide is anionic or nonionic. 
     
     
       3. The process according to  claim 1 , wherein in the pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (II), R1 and R2, independently, are chosen from OH or OR′. 
     
     
       4. The process according to  claim 1 , wherein in the pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (II), R′, independently, is chosen from a linear or branched, saturated C1-C12 alkyl or C1-C6 alkyl, optionally substituted with at least one OH, C1-C4 alkoxy, C1-C4 acyloxy, (C1-C4)alkyloxycarbonyl, (C1-C4)alkylamino, or phenyl. 
     
     
       5. The process according to  claim 1 , wherein the pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (II) is chosen from: 
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
       
     
     
       6. The process according to  claim 1 , wherein the heating step is performed at a temperature ranging from about 170° C. to about 250° C. 
     
     
       7. The process according to  claim 1 , wherein the steps are performed, in a sequence chosen from the following:
 applying the at least one oxidized polysaccharide or a first cosmetic composition comprising the at least one oxidized polysaccharide, then applying the pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (II) or a second cosmetic composition comprising the pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (II), and then heating the keratin fibers; 
 applying the at least one oxidized polysaccharide or a first cosmetic composition comprising the at least one oxidized polysaccharide, and applying the pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (II) or a cosmetic composition comprising the pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (II), and then heating the keratin fibers; 
 applying the at least one oxidized polysaccharide or a first cosmetic composition comprising the at least one oxidized polysaccharide, then heating the keratin fibers, applying the pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (II) or a second cosmetic composition comprising the pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (II), and then optionally heating the keratin fibers an additional time. 
 
     
     
       8. The process according to  claim 1 , wherein the process further comprises drying the keratin fibers after the application of the at least one oxidized polysaccharide and/or of a first cosmetic composition comprising the same and/or of the pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (II) or of a second cosmetic composition comprising the same, and before heating the keratin fibers, the drying step being performed at a temperature ranging from about 20° C. to about 70° C. 
     
     
       9. The process according to  claim 1 , wherein after application to the keratin fibers of the at least one oxidized polysaccharide and/or of the pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (II), and before heating the keratin fibers, the at least one oxidized polysaccharide and/or the pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (II) is left on the keratin fibers for a time ranging from about 1 to about 60 minutes. 
     
     
       10. The process according to  claim 1 , wherein the heating step is performed with a straightening iron. 
     
     
       11. The process according to  claim 1 , wherein the heating step is performed by applying a straightening iron to the keratin fibers in a substantially continuous movement from the root to the end of the keratin fibers, in at least one pass. 
     
     
       12. The process according to  claim 1 , wherein the process is performed on damaged keratin fibers and/or hair. 
     
     
       13. The process according to  claim 1 , wherein either or both of the at least one oxidized polysaccharide and/or the pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (II) is present in a cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium.