Mascara comprising a mixture of hard waxes and of film-forming polymer

Abstract

A mascara composition for curling and thickening eyelashes comprising: a waxes-in-water emulsion of at least one mixture of hard waxes (I), the mixture of waxes (I) containing at least one wax having a melting point ranging from 77° C. to 110° C., the mixture of waxes (I) is present in a content of at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the mixture of waxes (I) is in the form of particles of at least 1 μm in size, and at least 0.1% by weight of a polymer system containing at least one film-forming polymer, where the polymer system is capable of forming a film which produces, at a concentration of 7% in water, a greater than 1% retraction of isolated stratum corneum at 30° C. and under a relative humidity of 40%.

We claim:  
     
         1 . A method of curling and/or thickening keratin fibers comprising the step of applying to said keratin fibers an effective amount for said curling and/or thickening of a mascara composition comprising: 
 (i) a wax-in-water emulsion of at least one wax having a needle penetration ranging from 1 to 7.5 and a melting point ranging from 70° C. to 110° C., wherein said at least one wax is present in an amount of at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, and further wherein said at least one wax is in the form of particles greater than or equal to at least 1 μm in size and    (ii) at least 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition, of a polymer system containing at least one film-forming polymer, wherein said polymer system is capable of forming a film which produces, at a concentration of 7% in water, a greater than 1% retraction of isolated stratum corneum at 30° C. and under a relative humidity of 40%.    
     
     
         2 . A method according to  claim 1 , wherein said keratin fibers are eyelashes.  
     
     
         3 . A method according to  claim 1 , wherein said at least one wax is selected from waxes of animal origin, waxes of plant origin, waxes of mineral origin, synthetic waxes and waxes of natural origin.  
     
     
         4 . A method according to  claim 1 , wherein said at leat one wax is selected from rice bran wax, carnauba wax, ouricurry wax, candelilla wax, montan waxes, sugar cane waxes, and polyethylene waxes.  
     
     
         5 . A method according to  claim 1 , where at least one wax having said needle penetration has a melting point of at least 77° and less than 83° C.  
     
     
         6 . A method according to  claim 1 , wherein said at least one wax is rice bran wax.  
     
     
         7 . A method according to  claim 1 , wherein at least one wax having said needle penetration has a melting point ranging from 83° C. to 110° C.  
     
     
         8 . A method according to  claim 7 , wherein said at least one wax having a melting point ranging from 83° C. to 110° C. is selected from ouricurry wax, carnauba wax and montan waxes.  
     
     
         9 . A method according to  claim 8 , wherein said at least one wax having a melting point ranging from 83° C. to 110° C. is carnauba wax.  
     
     
         10 . A method according to  claim 1 , wherein said wax-in-water emulsion comprises: 
 at least one first wax having said needle penetration and a melting point of at least 77° C. and less than 83° C.; and    at least on second wax having said needle penetration and a melting point ranging from 83° C. to 110° C., and 
 wherein said first wax is present in an amount ranging from 35% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of said at least one first wax and said at least one second wax, and said second wax is present in an amount ranging from 35% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of said at least one first wax and said at least one second wax.  
   
     
     
         11 . A method according to  claim 10 , wherein said wax-in-water emulsion comprises at least one third wax having said needle penetration and a melting point ranging from 70° C. to less than 77° C.  
     
     
         12 . A method according to  claim 1 , wherein said wax-in-water emulsion further comprises at least one wax having said needle penetration and a melting point ranging from 70° C. to less than 77° C.  
     
     
         13 . A method according to  claim 12 , wherein said at least one wax having a melting point ranging from 70° C. to less than 77° C. is candelilla wax.  
     
     
         14 . A method according to  claim 12 , wherein said at least one wax having a melting point ranging from 70° C. to less than 77° C. is present in an amount ranging from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said waxes.  
     
     
         15 . A method according to  claim 1 , wherein said at least one wax is present in an amount of at least 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the mascara composition.  
     
     
         16 . A method according to  claim 1 , wherein said particles of said at least one wax are at least 1.5 μm in size.  
     
     
         17 . A method according to  claim 11 , wherein said first, second, and third waxes are present in a weight ratio to the total weight of wax of: 
 said first wax 0.35:1 to 0.5:1,    said second wax 0.35:1 to 0.5:1,    said third wax 0.05:1 to 0.2:1.    
     
     
         18 . A method according to  claim 1 , wherein said at least one film-forming polymer is selected from polymers of plant origin, polymers of animal origin, radical polymers and polycondensates.  
     
     
         19 . A method according to  claim 1 , wherein said at least one film-forming polymer is a water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer.  
     
     
         20 . A method according to  claim 1 , wherein said at least one film-forming polymer is selected from proteins, protein hydrolysates, chitin and its derivatives, shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammar resins, elemi gums, copal resins, cellulose derivatives, polycondensates and radical synthetic polymers.  
     
     
         21 . A method according to  claim 1 , wherein said at least one film-forming polymer is selected from proteins, protein hydrolysates, chitin and its derivatives, polyesters-polyurethanes, and sulphopolyesters.  
     
     
         22 . A method according to  claim 1 , wherein said at least on film-forming polymer is selected from hydroxypropylchitosan and wheat protein hydrolysate.  
     
     
         23 . A method according to  claim 22 , wherein said at least one film-forming polymer is wheat protein hydrolysate.  
     
     
         24 . A method according to  claim 1 , wherein said at least one film-forming polymer is selected from polyester-polyurethanes and sulphopolyesters.  
     
     
         25 . A method according to  claim 1 , wherein said wax-in-water emulsion further comprises at least one wax having a melting point of at least 50° C. and less than 70° C. and a needle penetration of greater than 7.5.  
     
     
         26 . A method according to  claim 1 , wherein said wax-in-water emulsion further comprises at least one wax having a melting point of at least 50° C. and less than 70° C. and a needle penetration of greater than 7.5 and less than or equal to 217.  
     
     
         27 . A method according to  claim 25 , wherein the weight ratio of said at least one wax having a needle penetration ranging from 1 to 7.5. and said melting point ranges from 77° C. to 110° C. to said at least one wax having a melting point of at least 50° C. and less than 70° C. and a needle penetration of greater than 7.5 ranges from 2:1 to 5:1.  
     
     
         28 . A method according to  claim 27 , wherein said ratio ranges from 2.5:1 to 3.5:1.  
     
     
         29 . A method according to  claim 1 , wherein said mascara composition further comprises at least one thickener.  
     
     
         30 . A method according to  claim 1 , wherein said mascara composition further comprises at least one silicone surfactant having an HLB ranging from 8 to 16.  
     
     
         31 . A method according to  claim 30 , wherein said at least one silicone surfactant is dimethicone copolyol.  
     
     
         32 . A method according to  claim 1 , wherein said mascara composition further comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable additive.  
     
     
         33 . A mascara composition comprising: 
 (i) a waxes-in-water emulsion of a mixture of waxes having a needle penetration ranging from 1 to 7.5 and a melting point ranging from 70° C. to 110° C., wherein said mixture of waxes comprises at least one first wax having said needle penetration and a melting point of at least 77° C. and less than 83° C., at least one second wax having said needle penetration and a melting point ranging from 83° C. to 110° C., and at least one third wax having said needle penetration and a melting point of at least 70° C. and less than 77° C., wherein said mixture of waxes is present in an amount of at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, and said mixture of waxes is in the form of particles of at least 1.0 μm in size, and    (ii) at least 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition, of a polymer system containing at least one film-forming polymer, wherein said polymer system is capable of forming a film which produces, at a concentration of 7% in water, a greater than 1% retraction of isolated stratum corneum at 30° C. and under a relative humidity of 40%.    
     
     
         34 . A composition according to  claim 33 , wherein said at least one first wax is rice bran wax.  
     
     
         35 . A composition according to  claim 33 , wherein said at least one second wax is selected from carnauba wax, ouricurry wax, and montan waxes.  
     
     
         36 . A composition according to  claim 35 , wherein said at least one second wax is carnauba wax.  
     
     
         37 . A composition according to  claim 33 , wherein said at least one third wax is candelilla wax,  
     
     
         38 . A composition according to  claim 33 , wherein said mixture of waxes comprises at least 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.  
     
     
         39 . A composition according to  claim 33 , wherein said first, second, and third waxes are present in a weight ratio to the total weight of wax of: 
 said first wax 0.35:1 to 0.5:1,    said second wax 0.35:1 to 0.5:1,    said third wax 0.05:1 to 0.2:1.    
     
     
         40 . A composition according to  claim 33 , wherein said first, second, and third waxes are particles of at least 1.5 μm in size.  
     
     
         41 . A composition according to  claim 33 , wherein said at least one film-forming polymer is selected from polymers of plant origin, polymers of animal origin, radical polymers and polycondensates.  
     
     
         42 . A composition according to  claim 33 , wherein said at least one film-forming polymer is a water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer.  
     
     
         43 . A composition according to  claim 33 , wherein said at least one film-forming polymer is selected from proteins, protein hydrolysates, chitin and its derivatives, shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammar resins, elemi gums, copal resins, cellulose derivatives, polycondensates and radical synthetic polymers.  
     
     
         44 . A composition according to  claim 33 , wherein said at least one film-forming polymer is selected from proteins, protein hydrolysates, chitin and its derivatives, polyesters-polyurethanes, and sulphopolyesters.  
     
     
         45 . A composition according to  claim 33 , wherein said at least one film-forming polymer is selected from hydroxypropylchitosan and wheat protein hydrolysate.  
     
     
         46 . A composition according to  claim 33 , wherein said water-soluble polymer is wheat protein hydrolysate.  
     
     
         47 . A composition according to  claim 33 , wherein said polycondensates are selected from polyester-polyurethanes and sulphopolyesters.  
     
     
         48 . A composition according to  claim 33 , wherein said wax-in -water emulsion further comprises at least one wax having a melting point of at least 50° C. and less than 70° C. and a needle penetration of greater than 7.5.  
     
     
         49 . A composition according to  claim 33 , wherein said wax-in -water emulsion further comprises at least one wax having a melting point of at least 50° C. and less than 70° C. and a needle penetration of greater than 7.5 and less than or equal to 217.  
     
     
         50 . A composition according to  claim 33 , wherein the weight ratio of said at least one first wax, at least one second wax, and at least one third wax to said at least one wax having a melting point of at least 50° C. and less than 70° C. and a needle penetration of greater than 7.5 ranges from 2:1 to 5:1.  
     
     
         51 . A composition according to claim  60 , wherein said ratio ranges from 2.5:1 to 3.5:1.  
     
     
         52 . A composition according to  claim 33 , wherein said mascara composition further comprises at least one thickener.  
     
     
         53 . A composition according to  claim 33 , wherein said mascara composition comprises at least one silicone surfactant having an HLB ranging from 8 to 16.  
     
     
         54 . A composition according to  claim 53 , wherein said at least one silicone surfactant is a dimethicone copolyol.  
     
     
         55 . A mascara product comprising a reservo 8 ir containing a mascara composition according to  claim 33 , and a system for applying said composition to keratin fibers.  
     
     
         56 . A process for making up keratin fibers comprising the step of applying an effective amount of at least one mascara composition according to  claim 33  to said keratin fibers.  
     
     
         57 . A process according to  claim 56 , wherein said keratin fibers are eyelashes.  
     
     
         58 . A method of curling and/or thickening keratin fibers comprising the step of applying to said keratin fibers an effective amount for said curling and/or thickening of a mascara composition comprising: 
 (i) a waxes-in-water emulsion of at least one wax having a needle penetration ranging from 1 to 7.5 and a melting point ranging from 70° C. to 110° C., and at least one wax having a needle penetration ranging from 1 to 7.5 and a melting point ranging from 70° C. to less than 77° C., wherein said mixture of said mixture of said waxes is present in an amount of at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, and said mixture of waxes (I) is in the form of particles of at least 1.5 μm in size, and further wherein said waxes in said mixture are in the form of particles greater than or equal to at least 1 μm in size, and    (ii) at least 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition, of a polymer system containing at least one film-forming polymer, wherein said polymer system is capable of forming a film which produces, at a concentration of 7% in water, a greater than 1% retraction of isolated stratum corneum at 30° C. and under a relative humidity of 40%.