Process for permanently reshaping the hair using particular aminosilicones

Abstract

A process for permanently reshaping keratin fibres, comprising the application to the keratin fibres, before reducing and/or after the fixing, of a pre-treatment and/or post-treatment cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one aminosilicone, as defined herein, in non-microemulsified form.

What is claimed is:  
     
         1 . A process for permanently reshaping keratin fibres, comprising: 
 (i) applying a reducing composition to the keratin fibres; and    (ii) oxidizing the keratin fibres;    wherein the process further comprises applying to the keratin fibres, before (i) and/or after (ii), a pre-treatment and/or post-treatment cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one aminosilicone in non-microemulsified form chosen from aminosilicones of formulae (I) and (II) below:                          wherein in formula (I):    m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) ranges from 1 to 1 000,    n is a number ranging from 0 to 999 and m is a number ranging from 1 to 1 000;    R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydroxyl and C 1 -C 4  alkoxy radicals, wherein at least one of the radicals R 1 , R 2  and R 3  is chosen from C 1 -C 4  alkoxy radicals; and                          wherein in formula (II):    p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) ranges from 1 to 1 000,    p is a number ranging from 0 to 999 and q is a number ranging from 1 to 1 000;    R 1 , R 2 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydroxyl and C 1 -C 4  alkoxy radicals, wherein at least one of the radicals R 1  and R 2  is chosen from C 1 -C 4  alkoxy radicals.    
     
     
         2 . The process according to  claim 1 , wherein in formula (I) the sum (n+m) ranges from 50 to 250.  
     
     
         3 . The process according to  claim 1 , wherein in formula (I) the sum (n+m) ranges from 100 to 200.  
     
     
         4 . The process according to  claim 1 , wherein in formula (I) the n is a number ranging from 49 to 249.  
     
     
         5 . The process according to  claim 1 , wherein in formula (I) the n is a number ranging from 125 to 175.  
     
     
         6 . The process according to  claim 1 , wherein in formula (I) the m is a number ranging from 1 to 10.  
     
     
         7 . The process according to  claim 1 , wherein in formula (I) the m is a number ranging from 1 to 5.  
     
     
         8 . The process according to  claim 1 , wherein in formula (II) the sum (p+q) ranges from 50 to 350.  
     
     
         9 . The process according to  claim 1 , wherein in formula (II) the sum (p+q) ranges from 150 to 250.  
     
     
         10 . The process according to  claim 1 , wherein in formula (II) the p is a number ranging from 49 to 349.  
     
     
         11 . The process according to  claim 1 , wherein in formula (II) the p is a number ranging from 159 to 239.  
     
     
         12 . The process according to  claim 1 , wherein in formula (II) the q is a number ranging from 1 to 10.  
     
     
         13 . The process according to  claim 1 , wherein in formula (II) the q is a number ranging from 1 to 5.  
     
     
         14 . The process according to  claim 1 , wherein the C 1 -C 4  alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.  
     
     
         15 . The process according to  claim 1 , wherein, for the at least one aminosilicone of formula (I), the hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1.  
     
     
         16 . The process according to  claim 15 , wherein the hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio ranges from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1.  
     
     
         17 . The process according to  claim 16 , wherein the hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio is equal to 0.3:1.  
     
     
         18 . The process according to  claim 1 , wherein, for the at least one aminosilicone of formula (II), the hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1.  
     
     
         19 . The process according to  claim 18 , wherein the hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio ranges from 1:0.9 to 1:1.  
     
     
         20 . The process according to  claim 19 , wherein the hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio is equal to 1:0.95.  
     
     
         21 . The process according to  claim 1 , wherein the at least one aminosilicone of formula (I) has a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 2 000 to 1 000 000.  
     
     
         22 . The process according to  claim 21 , wherein the at least one aminosilicone of formula (I) has a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 3 500 to 200 000.  
     
     
         23 . The process according to  claim 1 , wherein the at least one aminosilicone of formula (II) has a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 2 000 to 200 000.  
     
     
         24 . The process according to  claim 23 , wherein the at least one aminosilicone of formula (II) has a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 5 000 to 100 000.  
     
     
         25 . The process according to  claim 24 , wherein the at least one aminosilicone of formula (II) has a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 10 000 to 50 000.  
     
     
         26 . The process according to  claim 1 , wherein the at least one aminosilicone is chosen such that the contact angle with water of hair treated with a composition comprising 2% AM (active materials) of the at least one aminosilicone ranges from 90 to 180°.  
     
     
         27 . The process according to  claim 26 , wherein the at least one aminosilicone is chosen such that the contact angle with water of hair treated with a composition comprising 2% AM (active materials) of the at least one aminosilicone ranges from 90 to 130°.  
     
     
         28 . The process according  claim 1 , wherein the composition comprising at least one aminosilicone is chosen such that the contact angle with water of hair treated with the composition ranges from 90 to 180°.  
     
     
         29 . The process according to  claim 1 , wherein the pH of the pre-treatment and/or post-treatment composition comprising at least one aminosilicone ranges from 2 to 10.  
     
     
         30 . The process according to  claim 29 , wherein the pH of the pre-treatment and/or post-treatment composition comprising at least one aminosilicone ranges from 3 to 9.  
     
     
         31 . The process according to  claim 1 , wherein the concentration of the at least one aminosilicone in the pre-treatment and/or post-treatment composition ranges from 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.  
     
     
         32 . The process according to  claim 31 , wherein the concentration of the at least one aminosilicone in the pre-treatment and/or post-treatment composition ranges from 0.1 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.  
     
     
         33 . The process according to  claim 1 , wherein the pre-treatment and/or post-treatment composition is left to act on the keratin fibres for a period of time ranging from 1 to 60 minutes.  
     
     
         34 . The process according to  claim 33 , wherein the pre-treatment and/or post-treatment composition is left to act on the keratin fibres for a period of time ranging from 3 to 30 minutes.  
     
     
         35 . The process according to  claim 1 , wherein the pre-treatment and/or post-treatment composition further comprises at least one additive chosen from vitamins and derivatives thereof, provitamins, antioxidants, essential oils, wetting agents, silicone and non-silicone sunscreens, preserving agents, sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, pigments, moisturizers, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoeic agents, plasticizers, hydroxy acids, electrolytes, solvents and fragrances.  
     
     
         36 . The process according to  claim 35 , wherein the vitamins and derivatives thereof are chosen from vitamin E, vitamin E acetate, vitamin C and its esters, B vitamins, vitamin A alcohol and retinol, and vitamin A acid and retinoic acid and derivatives thereof.  
     
     
         37 . The process according to  claim 35 , wherein the provitamins are chosen from panthenol, vitamin A palmitate, niacinamide, and ergocalciferol.  
     
     
         38 . The process according to  claim 1 , wherein the keratin fibres are hair.  
     
     
         39 . A kit for permanently reshaping of keratin fibres comprising at least one compartment comprising a pre-treatment and/or post-treatment cosmetic composition comprising at least one aminosilicone in non-microemulsified form chosen from aminosilicones of formulae (I) and (II) below:  
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
       
       wherein in formula (I): 
 m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) ranges from 1 to 1 000,  
 n is a number ranging from 0 to 999 and m is a number ranging from 1 to 1 000;  
 R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydroxyl and C 1 -C 4  alkoxy radicals, wherein at least one of the radicals R 1 , R 2  and R 3  is chosen from C 1 -C 4  alkoxy radicals; and  
                     
 wherein in formula (II):  
 p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) ranges from 1 to 1 000,  
 p is a number ranging from 0 to 999 and q is a number ranging from 1 to 1 000;  
 R 1 , R 2 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydroxyl and C 1 -C 4  alkoxy radicals, wherein at least one of the radicals R 1  and R 2  is chosen from C 1 -C 4  alkoxy radicals.  
 
     
     
         40 . A pre-treatment and/or post-treatment cosmetic composition for pre-treatment and/or post-treatment in the permanent reshaping of keratin fibres comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium in said composition, at least one aminosilicone in non-microemulsified form chosen from aminosilicones of formulas (I) and (II) below:  
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
       
       wherein in formula (I): 
 m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) ranges from 1 to 1 000,  
 n is a number ranging from 0 to 999 and m is a number ranging from 1 to 1 000;  
 R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydroxyl and C 1 -C 4  alkoxy radicals, wherein at least one of the radicals R 1 , R 2  and R 3  is chosen from C 1 -C 4  alkoxy radicals; and  
                     
 wherein in formula (II):  
 p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) ranges from 1 to 1 000,  
 p is a number ranging from 0 to 999 and q is a number ranging from 1 to 1 000;  
 R 1 , R 2 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydroxyl and C 1 -C 4  alkoxy radicals, wherein at least one of the radicals R 1  and R 2  is chosen from C 1 -C 4  alkoxy radicals.