Process for permanently deforming keratinic fibers comprising an application step of an intermediate rinsing composition including a monovalent metallic cation or an ammonium salt and an organic acid

Abstract

The invention concerns a process for permanently deforming keratinic fibers, in particular hair, which comprises: applying to the keratinic fibers a reducing composition, to reduce keratin disulfide linkages, the keratinic fibers being placed under mechanical tension before, during or after said application, preferably before, then applying to the keratinic fibers an intermediate rinsing composition comprising at least one salt of a monovalent metallic cation and/or at least one ammonium salt, and at least one organic acid, said one or more monovalent salts not being one or more salts of said one or more organic acids present in the intermediate rinsing composition, and said one or more salts not being surfactants, then applying to the keratinic fibers an oxidative composition in an oxidation fixing step, to recreate said linkages, said process being free of any water rinsing step either between the reducing composition application step and the intermediate rinsing composition application step, or between the intermediate rinsing composition application step and the oxidative composition application step.

1 . A process for permanently deforming keratinic fibers comprising:
 applying to said keratinic fibers a reducing composition, to reduce keratin disulfide linkages, the keratinic fibers being placed under mechanical tension before, during or after said application, then   applying to said keratinic fibers an intermediate rinsing composition comprising at least one salt chosen from at least one salt of a monovalent metallic cation and at least one ammonium salt, and at least one organic acid, wherein said at least one monovalent salt is not a salt of said organic acid(s) present in the intermediate rinsing composition, and wherein neither the at least one monovalent salt nor the at least one ammonium salt is a surfactant, then   applying to said keratinic fibers an oxidative composition in an oxidation fixing step to recreate said linkages,   said process being free of any water rinsing step either between the reducing composition application step and the intermediate rinsing composition application step, or between the intermediate rinsing composition application step and the oxidative composition application step.   
   
   
       2 . A process according to  claim 1 , wherein said reducing composition is left to act for 5 to 60 minutes. 
   
   
       3 . A process according to  claim 1 , wherein said reducing composition comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one reducing agent selected chosen from reducing agents of formula:
   H(X′) q (R′) r      in which X′ is chosen from P, S and SO 2 , q is 0 or 1, r is 1 or 2 and R′ is a (C 1 -C 20 )hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally interrupted by an hetero atom, and optionally bearing substituents chosen from a hydroxy group, a halogenated group, an amine or a carboxy group, a ((C 1 -C 30 ) alkoxy)carbonyl group, an amido group, a ((C 1 -C 30 )alkyl)amino carbonyl group, a (C 1 -C 30 )acyl)amino group, a mono or dialkylamino group, and a mono or dihydroxylamino group,   or one of its salts in combination with a base.   
   
   
       4 . A process according to  claim 3 , wherein the at least one reducing agent is chosen from thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, glycerol monothioglycolate, cysteamine, N-acetyl-cysteamine, N-propionyl-cysteamine, cystein, N-acetyl-cystein, thiomalic acid, panthetein, 2,3-dimercaptosuccinic acid, N-(mercaptoalkyl)-ω-hydroxyalkylamides, N-mono or N,N-dialkylmercapto-4-butyramides, aminomercapto-alkylamides, derivatives of N-(mercaptoalkyl)succinamic acids and N-(mercaptoalkyl)succinimides, alkylamino mercaptoalkylamides, the azeotropic mixture of 2-hydroxypropyl thioglyconate and (2-hydroxy-1-méthyl)ethyl thioglycolate, mercaptoalkylaminoamides, N-mercapto-alkylalkanediamides and the derivatives of formamidine sulfinic acid, and salts thereof. 
   
   
       5 . A process according to  claim 3 , wherein the at least one reducing agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 30% by weight based on the total weight of the reducing composition 
   
   
       6 . A process according to  claim 1 , wherein the at least one salt is chosen from NaCl, NH 4 Cl, KCl, and AgCl. 
   
   
       7 . A process according to  claim 1 , wherein the at least one salt is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the intermediate rinsing composition. 
   
   
       8 . A process according to  claim 1 , wherein the at least one organic acid is chosen from acids comprising at least one functional group chosen from carboxylic, sulfonic, phosphonic and phosphoric acid functional groups. 
   
   
       9 . A process according to  claim 8 , wherein the at least one organic acid is chosen from acetic, propanoic, butanoic, lactic, glycolic, ascorbic, maleic, phtalic, succinic and citric acids. 
   
   
       10 . A process according to  claim 1 , wherein the at least one organic acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.005 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the intermediate rinsing composition. 
   
   
       11 . A process according to  claim 1 , wherein said intermediate rinsing composition comprises at least one polymer chosen from cationic, anionic, non-ionic and amphoteric polymers, and/or at least one silicone. 
   
   
       12 . A process according to  claim 11 , wherein said intermediate rinsing composition does not contain betaine. 
   
   
       13 . A process according to  claim 1 , wherein said intermediate rinsing composition does not contain amphoteric surfactant. 
   
   
       14 . A process according to  claim 1 , wherein the pH of the intermediate rinsing composition ranges from 2 to 7. 
   
   
       15 . A process according to  claim 1 , wherein said oxidative composition comprises at least one oxidative agent chosen from hydrogen peroxide, alkaline bromates, polythionates, and persalts. 
   
   
       16 . A process according to  claim 15 , wherein the at least one oxidative agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 8% by weight with regard to the total weight of the oxidative composition. 
   
   
       17 . A process according to  claim 1 , wherein the pH of the oxidative composition ranges from 1 to 13. 
   
   
       18 . A process according to  claim 1 , wherein the intermediate rinsing composition is left to act for 30 seconds to 30 minutes. 
   
   
       19 . A process according to  claim 1 , wherein the reducing composition application step and/or the intermediate rinsing composition application step and/or the oxidative composition application step are performed with heating or are immediately followed by heating. 
   
   
       20 . A process according to  claim 1 , wherein it comprises, after the oxidation fixing step, a rinsing step of the keratinic fibers with water and/or by means of a remaining portion of the intermediate rinsing composition.