Method for straightening keratinous fibers using heating means and an acid derivative

Abstract

The invention concerns a method for straightening keratinous fibers including: (i) a step of applying on the keratinous fibers a hair straightening composition containing at least one alpha-hydroxy and/or keto acid derivative, the pH of said composition being not more than 9 (ii) a step of increasing the temperature of the keratinous fibers, using heating means, to a temperature ranging between 110 and 250° C.

1 - 14 . (canceled) 
     
     
         15 . A process for relaxing keratin fibers, comprising:
 applying to the keratin fibers a hair-relaxing composition comprising at least one α-hydroxy acid or keto acid derivative, wherein the pH of said composition is less than or equal to 9, and   heating the keratin fibers to a temperature of from 110° C. to 250° C.   
     
     
         16 . A process according to  claim 15 , wherein said keratin fibers are heated to a temperature of from 120° C. to 220° C. 
     
     
         17 . A process according to  claim 16 , wherein said keratin fibers are heated to a temperature of from 140° C. to 220° C. 
     
     
         18 . The process according to  claim 15 , wherein the said composition is applied to wet keratin fibers. 
     
     
         19 . The process according to  claim 15 , wherein the said fibers are partially predried. 
     
     
         20 . The process according to  claim 15 , wherein the molar concentration of the at least one α-hydroxy acid and/or of keto acid derivative is from 2 to 8 M. 
     
     
         21 . The process according to  claim 20 , wherein the molar concentration of the at least one α-hydroxy acid or of keto acid derivative is from 4 to 8 M. 
     
     
         22 . The process according to  claim 15 , wherein the pH of the composition is less than or equal to 7. 
     
     
         23 . The process according to  claim 15 , wherein the at least one α-hydroxy acid derivative corresponds to the formula (I): 
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
         R is chosen from OH and NR 3 R 4  wherein R 3  and R 4  are independently chosen from hydrogen and a linear or branched C 1 -C 4  alkyl optionally substituted with at least one OH radical; 
         R 1  is chosen from: H, OH, NH 2 , CH 2 —COOH, and a linear or branched C 1 -C 4  alkyl, 
         R 2  is chosen from
 H, 
 COOH, 
 CHOH—COOH, 
 CF 3 , 
 CH═CH 2 , 
 NHCONH 2 , 
 a linear, branched or cyclic C 1 -C 8  alkyl optionally substituted with a radical chosen from OH, Cl, NH 2 , COOH, CF 3 , and SCH 3 ; and 
 a phenyl and benzyl optionally substituted with one OH or OCH 3  radical;
 or substituted with the radical 
 
 
       
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
       
       or
 R 1  and R 2  optionally are taken together to form an oxo radical (═O) or a cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, hydroxycyclobutyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl ring with the carbon atom that bears them, 
 
       or the at least one α-hydroxy acid derivative corresponds to the radical 
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
       
       provided that when R 1  is H, then R 2  is chosen from a (CHOH) 2 CH 2 OH and (CHOH) 3 CH 2 OH radical, 
       and the stereoisomers and organic or mineral salts thereof. 
     
     
         24 . The process according to  claim 23 , wherein the compounds of formula (I) are chosen from:
 glycolic acid,   oxalic acid,   lactic acid,   1-hydroxy-1-cyclopropanecarboxylic acid,   2-hydroxy-3-butenoic acid,   2-hydroxyisobutyric acid,   2-hydroxy-n-butyric acid,   isoserine,   glyceric acid,   2-hydroxy-3-methylbutyric acid,   2-hydroxy-2-methylbutyric acid,   2-hydroxyvaleric acid,   4-amino-2-hydroxybutyric acid,   1-hydroxycyclohexanecarboxylic acid,   dihydroxyfumaric acid,   citramalic acid,   tartaric acid,   citric acid,   2-hydroxy-4-(methylthio)butyric acid,   mandelic acid,   2-hydroxy-3-methylvaleric acid,   glyoxylurea,   β-imidazolelactic acid,   2-trifluoromethyl-2-hydroxypropionic acid,   hexahydromandelic acid,   2-hydroxyoctanoic acid,   arabic acid,   3-phenylactic acid,   hydroxyphenylglycine,   3-hydroxymandelic acid,   4-hydroxymandelic acid,   2-hydroxynonanoic acid,   L-arginic acid,   3-methoxymandelic acid,   4-methoxymandelic acid,   3-(4-hydroxyphenyl)lactic acid,   tartronic acid,   tartaric acid,   β-chlorolactic acid,   1-cyclopentanol-1-carboxylic acid,   1,2-dihydroxycyclobutanecarboxylic acid,   2-ethyl-2-hydroxybutric acid,   α-hydroxyisocaproic acid,   α-hydroxycaproic acid,   2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethylbutyric acid,   malic acid,   hydroxytartronic acid,   gluconic acid,   lactamide,   N-methyllactamide,   N-ethyllactamide,   N,N-dimethyllactamide,   N-2-hydroxyethyllactamide,   
       and the stereoisomers and organic or mineral salts thereof. 
     
     
         25 . The process according to  claim 24 , wherein the compounds of formula (I) are chosen from:
 glycolic acid,   oxalic acid,   L-lactic acid,   DL-lactic acid,   D-lactic acid,   malic acid,   tartaric acid,   DL-glyceric acid,   arabic acid,   gluconic acid,   hydroxytartronic acid,   lactamide,   N-methyllactamide,   N-ethyllactamide, and   N-2-hydroxyethyllactamide.   
     
     
         26 . The process according to  claim 15 , wherein the at least one α-keto acid derivative correspond to formula (II): 
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
       
       wherein
 R 5  is chosen from
 COOH, 
 a linear or branched C 1 -C 6  alkyl optionally substituted with an OH, COOH or Br radical; 
 a phenyl or benzyl optionally substituted with an OH or COOH radical; 
 or an indolyl radical or 
 
 
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
       
       and the stereoisomers and organic or mineral salts thereof. 
     
     
         27 . The process according to  claim 26 , wherein the compounds of formula (II) are chosen from:
 pyruvic acid,   2-ketobutyric acid,   β-hydroxypyruvic acid,   3-methyl-2-oxobutyric acid,   2-oxovaleric acid,   ketomalonic acid,   3-methyl-2-oxovaleric acid,   trimethylpyruvic acid,   oxolacetic acid,   2-ketoglutaric acid,   benzylformic acid,   2-oxooctanoic acid,   2-oxoadipic acid,   phenylpyruvic acid,   bromopyruvic acid,   2-ketopimelic acid,   4-hydroxyphenylpyruvic acid,   3-indoleglyoxalic acid,   imidazolopyruvic acid HCl,   2-keto-L-gulonic acid,   2-carboxy-α-oxobenzeneacetic acid,   3-indolepyruvic acid,   2-ketoglutaric acid dihydrate,   pyruvamide,   N-methylpyruvamide,   N-ethylpyruvamide,   N,N-dimethylpyruvamide, and   N-2-hydroxyethylpyruvamide,   
       and the stereoisomers and organic or mineral salts thereof. 
     
     
         28 . The process according to  claim 26 , wherein the compounds of formula (II) are chosen from:
 pyruvic acid,   2-ketobutyric acid,   β-hydroxypyruvic acid,   ketomalonic acid,   oxolacetic acid,   2-ketoglutaric acid,   2-keto-L-gulonic acid,   2-ketoglutaric acid dihydrate, and   pyruvamide.   
     
     
         29 . A kit comprising at least:
 one heating apparatus that provides a temperature of from 110° C. to 250° C.,   at least one hair-relaxing composition comprising at least one α-hydroxy acid and/or keto acid derivative, wherein the pH of said at least one composition is less than or equal to 9.   
     
     
         30 . A kit according to  claim 29 , wherein the hair-relaxing composition comprises at least one α-hydroxy acid and/or keto acid derivative of formula (I) chosen from:
 glycolic acid,   oxalic acid,   lactic acid,   1-hydroxy-1-cyclopropanecarboxylic acid,   2-hydroxy-3-butenoic acid,   2-hydroxyisobutyric acid,   2-hydroxy-n-butyric acid,   isoserine,   glyceric acid,   2-hydroxy-3-methylbutyric acid,   2-hydroxy-2-methylbutyric acid,   2-hydroxyvaleric acid,   4-amino-2-hydroxybutyric acid,   1-hydroxycyclohexanecarboxylic acid,   dihydroxyfumaric acid,   citramalic acid,   tartaric acid,   citric acid,   2-hydroxy-4-(methylthio)butyric acid,   mandelic acid,   2-hydroxy-3-methylvaleric acid,   glyoxylurea,   β-imidazolelactic acid,   2-trifluoromethyl-2-hydroxypropionic acid,   hexahydromandelic acid,   2-hydroxyoctanoic acid,   arabic acid,   3-phenylactic acid,   hydroxyphenylglycine,   3-hydroxymandelic acid,   4-hydroxymandelic acid,   2-hydroxynonanoic acid,   L-arginic acid,   3-methoxymandelic acid,   4-methoxymandelic acid,   3-(4-hydroxyphenyl)lactic acid,   tartronic acid,   tartaric acid,   β-chlorolactic acid,   1-cyclopentanol-1-carboxylic acid,   1,2-dihydroxycyclobutanecarboxylic acid,   2-ethyl-2-hydroxybutric acid,   α-hydroxyisocaproic acid,   α-hydroxycaproic acid,   2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethylbutyric acid,   malic acid,   hydroxytartronic acid,   gluconic acid,   lactamide,   N-methyllactamide,   N-ethyllactamide,   N,N-dimethyllactamide, and   N-2-hydroxyethyllactamide,   and the stereoisomers and organic or mineral salts   and/or formula (II) chosen from:   pyruvic acid,   2-ketobutyric acid,   β-hydroxypyruvic acid,   3-methyl-2-oxobutyric acid,   2-oxovaleric acid,   ketomalonic acid,   3-methyl-2-oxovaleric acid,   trimethylpyruvic acid,   oxolacetic acid,   2-ketoglutaric acid,   benzylformic acid,   2-oxooctanoic acid,   2-oxoadipic acid,   phenylpyruvic acid,   bromopyruvic acid,   2-ketopimelic acid,   4-hydroxyphenylpyruvic acid,   3-indoleglyoxalic acid,   imidazolopyruvic acid HCl,   2-keto-L-gulonic acid,   2-carboxy-α-oxobenzeneacetic acid,   3-indolepyruvic acid,   2-ketoglutaric acid dihydrate,   pyruvamide,   N-methylpyruvamide,   N-ethylpyruvamide,   N,N-dimethylpyruvamide,   N-2-hydroxyethylpyruvamide,   
       and the stereoisomers and organic or mineral salts, 
       or mixtures thereof in all proportions.