Oligopeptides And Their Use In Cosmetics

Abstract

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of oligopeptides, cosmetic preparations which comprise such oligopeptides as well as certain oligopeptide derivatives themselves.

1 . A cosmetic composition comprising oligopeptides with the structure of formula (I)
   R1-[AA] n -R2  (I)
   wherein [AA] comprises at least 5 consecutive amino acids, which are identical compared to 5 consecutive amino acids of SEQ 10 NO. 1,   wherein n is the total number of amino acids in the oligopeptide,   wherein n=5;   wherein R1 is linked to the amino-terminal part of [AA] and is selected from the group consisting of
 a) —H, 
 b) a linear saturated or unsaturated or branched saturated or unsaturated acyl group having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, wherein said acyl group is optionally functionalised by a —OH, —SH, —COOH or —CONH 2  group, and 
 c) a sterol or a sphingolipid group which is joined to the amino terminal part of [AA] via a bifunctional linker, and 
   wherein R2 is linked to the C═O group of the carboxy terminal part of [AA] and is selected from the group consisting of
 d) —OH, 
 e) —NH 2 , 
 f) a linear saturated or unsaturated or branched saturated or unsaturated alkoxy group having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, wherein said acyl group is optionally functionalised by a —OH, —SH, —COOH or CONH 2  group, and 
 g) a sterol or a sphingolipid group. 
   
     
     
         2 . The composition of  claim 1 , wherein [AA] comprises at least 5 consecutive amino acids identical to amino acids no. 1 to 15 of SEQ ID0 NO.1. 
     
     
         3 . The composition of  claim 1 , wherein R1=H or a linear saturated or unsaturated or branched saturated or unsaturated acyl group having 1 to 12 carbon atoms. 
     
     
         4 . The composition of  claim 3 , wherein R1=H and R2=OH. 
     
     
         5 . The composition of  claim 1 , wherein the oligopeptides are present in a concentration of from 0.05 to 500 ppm. 
     
     
         6 . The composition of  claim 5 , wherein the oligopeptides are present in a concentration of from 0.5 to 100 ppm. 
     
     
         7 . The composition of  claim 1  which is selected from the group consisting of shampoos, hair lotions, foam baths, shower baths, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous/alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax/fat masses, stick preparations, powders and ointments. 
     
     
         8 . The composition of  claim 1 , wherein said oligopeptides are present in an amount effective to stimulate the growth of human keratinocytes in-vitro. 
     
     
         9 . The composition of  claim 1 , wherein said at least 5 consecutive amino acids is selected from the group consisting of Arg-Arg-Arg-Pro-Arg (SEQ ID NO. 38), Arg-Pro-Pro-Tyr-Leu (SEQ ID NO. 42), Pro-Tyr-Leu-Pro-Arg (SEQ ID NO. 44), and Tyr-Leu-Pro-Arg-Pro (SEQ ID NO. 45). 
     
     
         10 . A cosmetic composition comprising oligopeptides with the structure of formula (I)
   R1-[AA] n -R2  (I)
   wherein [AA] comprises at least 5 consecutive amino acids, which are identical compared to 5 consecutive amino acids of SEQ ID NO. 1,   wherein n is the total number of amino acids in the oligopeptide,   wherein n=5,   wherein R1 is linked to the amino-terminal part of [AA] and is selected from the group consisting of
 a. —H, 
 b. a linear saturated or unsaturated or branched saturated or unsaturated acyl group having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, which may be functionalised by a —OH, —SH, —COOH or —CONH 2  group, or 
 c. a sterol or a sphingolipid group which is joined to the amino terminal part of [AA] via a bifunctional linker, 
   wherein R2 is linked to the C═O group of the carboxy terminal part of [AA] and is selected from the group consisting of
 d) —OH, 
 e) —NH 2 , 
 f) a linear saturated or unsaturated or branched saturated or unsaturated alkoxy group having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, which may be functionalised by a —OH, SH, —COOH or —CONH 2  group, and 
 g) a sterol or a sphingolipid group, 
   with the proviso that if R1 is —H, R2 is not —OH; or that if R2 is —OH, R1 is not —H; and with the further proviso that if R1 is —H, R2 is selected from the group consisting of
 h) —NH 2 , 
 i) a linear saturated or unsaturated or branched saturated or unsaturated alkoxy group having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, and 
 j) a sterol or a sphingolipid group. 
   
     
     
         11 . The composition of  claim 10 , wherein the oligopeptides are present in a concentration of from 0.05 to 500 ppm. 
     
     
         12 . The composition of  claim 11 , wherein the oligopeptides are present in a concentration of from 0.5 to 100 ppm. 
     
     
         13 . A method for strengthening the cutaneous barrier of human skin comprising contacting the skin with the cosmetic composition of  claim 1  in an amount effective to stimulate the growth and differentiation of human keratinocytes. 
     
     
         14 . A method for strengthening the cutaneous barrier of human skin comprising contacting the skin with the cosmetic composition of  claim 1  in an amount effective to stimulate syndecan-1 synthesis. 
     
     
         15 . A method for delaying and preventing skin aging and strengthening firmness, epidermal cohesion, and dermo-epidermal junction of human skin comprising contacting the skin with the cosmetic composition of  claim 1  in an amount effective to stimulate the growth and differentiation of human keratinoctyes. 
     
     
         16 . A method for delaying and preventing skin aging and strengthening firmness, epidermal cohesion, and dermo-epidermal junction of human skin comprising contacting the skin with the cosmetic composition of  claim 1  in an amount effective to stimulate syndecan-1 synthesis. 
     
     
         17 . An oligopeptide selected from the group consisting of Arg-Arg-Arg-Pro-Arg (SEQ ID NO. 38), Arg-Pro-Pro-Tyr-Leu (SEQ ID NO. 42), Pro-Tyr-Leu-Pro-Arg (SEQ ID NO. 44), and Tyr-Leu-Pro-Arg-Pro (SEQ ID NO. 45).