Methods for preparation of keratin fiber color coatings with a silicone aza michael composition

Abstract

The methods and compositions of the present invention are directed to coloration of anagenic hair. The methods involve priming and deep cleaning the anagenic hair followed by coating the hair strands with a composite pigment containing film of a small molecule and a film forming composition which covalently interact to form an intimate three dimensional silicone network incorporating the pigment on the surfaces of the hair.

What is claimed is: 
     
         1 . A method for producing a color coating on the surfaces of keratin fibers comprising
 Preparing the keratin fibers to form primed and/or deep cleaned keratin fibers;   Applying to the primed and/or deep cleaned keratin fibers a pretreatment composition to form pre-coated keratin fibers; and   Applying to the pre-coated keratin fibers a film forming composition to form a composite film of the film forming composition and pretreatment composition on the keratin fibers; and,   Converting the composite film to a color coating on the keratin fibers;   wherein   The pretreatment composition comprises a compatible medium and at least one organosilicone small molecule with alkoxysilyl groups and/or organoamine groups;   The film forming composition comprises a compatible medium with one or more microparticle pigments and/or color bodies and a multiconstituent component of a binder comprising a silicone polymer having pendant and/or terminal α,β-unsaturated alkenoyloxy groups and a linker comprising a silicone polymer having pendant and/or terminal organoamine groups and optional terminal alkoxysilyl groups wherein the binder and linker are each independently linear or branched, preferably linear; and,   The keratin fibers are anagenic hair or are keratin fibers coated with sebum and the keratin fibers are primed and/or deep cleaned by removal of sebum and associated substances on the keratin fiber surfaces.   
     
     
         2 . A method according to  claim 1  wherein the binder comprises a silicone polymer of Formula I
   X z —SiMe 3-z O-(Me 2 SiO) x —(Si(—X)MeO) y —SiOMe 3-z -X z    Formula I
 
 wherein 
 each of Me 2 SiO and Si(—X)MeO comprise a monomeric siloxane D unit, and X z SiMe 3-z O comprises a monomeric siloxane M unit; 
 X comprises R 1 R 2 C═CR 3 COO—R 4 —; 
 each of R 1  and R 2  independently is a hydrogen or a C1-C6 linear or branched alkyl group, provided that at least one of R 1  and R 2  is hydrogen; 
 R 3  is hydrogen or methyl; 
 R 4  is a linear C1 to C12 alkylenyl group, a linear C3-C12 cycloalkylalkyl or cycloalkyl group, a linear C6-C20 arylalkyl group or a C6-C20 aryl group wherein any or all of the groups are optionally substituted in chain by one or more ether oxygen, thioether sulfur and/or amine groups and/or pendantly by hydroxyl groups and R 4  is attached to silicon of a monomeric D and/or M unit;
 each of the designators x and y independently designates the number of monomeric D siloxane units forming the corresponding linear polymeric silicone backbone, wherein x is an integer of from 1 up to about 100,000 and designator y is zero or an integer of from 1 to 10; 
 designator z for each of the X z SiMe 3-z O units is zero or 1 so that the X 2 SiMe 3-z O unit has a terminal X group or is an M-type trimethyl siloxy group; 
 the sum of x and y is an integer of from about 3 up to about 200,000, preferably up to about 150,000, more preferably up to about 100,000, most preferably up to about 50,000 and especially most preferably up to about 100, with exemplary sums of 10 to 50 and 10 to 20; and 
 the multiple monomeric units of Me 2 SiO and Si(—X)MeO are randomly distributed in Formula I. 
 
 
     
     
         3 . A method according to  claim 1  wherein the binder comprises Formula IV:
   H 2 C═CHCOOCH 2 CHOH—CH 2 —O—(CH 2 ) c —SiMe 2 O—(SiMe 2 O) m -[MeSiO—(—(CH 2 ) c —O—CH 2 —CHOH—CH 2 OOC—CH═CH 2 )] g -(Me 2 SiO) p —OSiMe 2 -(CH 2 ) c —O—CH 2 —CHOHCH 2 OOCCH═CH 2    Formula IV
 
 wherein c and c′ are each independently an integer of 1 to 6, m and p are each independently an integer of from about 5 to about 100, g is zero or an integer of from 1 to about 10, and the dimethylsiloxanyl and acryloyloxyalkylsiloxanyl groups are distributed randomly. 
 
     
     
         4 . A method according to  claim 1  wherein the linker comprises Formula V
   M1-(D) d -M2   Formula V
 
 wherein
 M1 and M2 are termini of the linker and are selected from Me 3 SiO units, A-SiMe 2 O units and —Si(OR) 3  units wherein R is methyl or ethyl and A is an organoamine group of the Formula OA
   H 2 N-(R 10 —NH) r —R 11 —   Formula OA
 
 
 wherein R 10  is a C1-C10 alkyl group or a C6-C14 alkylaryl group; R 11  is a C1-C10 alkyl group or a C6-C14 alkylaryl group; and designator r is zero or an integer of 1 to 3 and R11 is bonded to silicon when r is other than zero and R10 is bonded to silicon when r is zero; and 
 D units form the backbone of the polydimethylsiloxane-type linker with designator d being an integer of from 3 to 20,000 indicating the size of the linker, wherein 
 the D units are selected from SiMe 2 O units (dimethylsiloxane units) and A-SiMeO units. 
 
 
     
     
         5 . A method according to  claim 1  wherein the pretreatment composition comprises at least one organosilicone small molecule comprising at least one pendant and/or terminal alkoxysilyl group and no or at least one pendant and/or terminal organoamine group. 
     
     
         6 . A method according to  claim 1  wherein the small molecule of the pretreatment composition has Formula III
   [(H 2 N)—((CH 2 ) m —NH) o —(R 14 ) n )] a —[RO t Me 3-t Si—O] n —(—SiMe 2 -O) p —(—SiMeOR—O) q —[(—SiMe 2-r′ [(CH 2 ) m′ —NH 2 ] r —O] s -[A] c -[(—SiMeMe 2-v -O] u —SiMe 3-t OR t    Formula III
 
 wherein 
 R may be methyl or ethyl; 
 R 14  is a C1-C6 alkylenyl group; 
 Designators m and m′ may be an integer of 1 to 3; 
 Designators o, n, b, r, s, c, u may be zero or 1; 
 Designator a may be zero, 1 or 2; 
 Designator v may be zero, 1 or 2 such that when a is 2, v is 2 and when a is 1, vis 1 and when a is zero, vis 1 or zero. 
 Designator t may be 1 to 3; 
 Designators p and q independently may be zero or an integer of 1 to 6. 
 Designator t may be zero or an integer 1-3; 
 Group A may be a divalent group including dithio, diazo, urethanyl, ureido, or C1-C6 alkylenyl connecting left and right sections of the small molecule, or Group A may be a terminal group including C1-C14 alkyl, C1X-C14X alkyl wherein X is N, S or O and X may be in-chain or terminal, C1-C6 alkoxy, C7-C14 arylalkyl, C6X-C14X heteroarylalkyl with X as N, S or O; C1-C6 alkylenyl(meth)acrylate or C1-C6 alkylureido. 
 
     
     
         7 . A method according to  claim 1  wherein the binder of the film forming composition has a weight average molecular weight of about 0.5 KDa to about 10 KDa, preferably about 0.5 KDa to about 5 KDa, more preferably about 1 KDa to about 5 KDa, most preferably about 1 KDa to about 3 KDa and the linker of the film forming composition has a weight average molecular weight of about 5 KDa to about 50 KDa, preferably about 5 KDa to about 30 KDa, more preferably about 5 KDa to about 20 KDa, most preferably about 8 KDa to about 20 KDa. 
     
     
         8 . A method according to  claim 1  further comprising priming and/or deep cleaning the keratin fibers by applying a Praeparatur and/or a Fundamenta technique to the fibers, wherein the Praeparatur and/or Fundamenta techniques comprise a Praeparatur step of treating the keratin fibers with a non-conditioning or substantially non-conditioning surfactant composition to produce primed keratin fibers; and a Fundamenta step of deep cleaning the surfaces of the keratin fibers to form deep cleaned keratin fibers. 
     
     
         9 . A method according to  claim 1  wherein the Praeparatur technique includes an anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant or a combination thereof at a concentration of from about 2 wt % to about 30 wt % relative to the total weight of the composition and optional inclusion of agents for adjustment of viscosity and ionicity and optional adjustment of the pH. 
     
     
         10 . A method according to  claim 1  wherein the Fundamenta technique includes deep cleaning which is accomplished by application of at least one of a cold plasma, a phase transfer tenside, an oxidizing agent or a combination thereof to the surfaces of the keratin fibers whereby the deep cleaning at least partially removes F layer fatty acid, sebum and optionally adjusts the topography at the surfaces of the keratin fibers. 
     
     
         11 . A method for producing a color coating on the surfaces of primed and/or deep cleaned keratin fibers according to  claim 1  comprising
 Applying to the primed and/or deep cleaned keratin fibers a pretreatment composition to form pre-coated keratin fibers; and 
 Applying to the pre-coated keratin fibers a film forming composition to form a composite film of film forming composition and pretreatment composition on the keratin fibers; and, 
 Converting the film to the color coating on the keratin fibers; 
 wherein 
 The pretreatment composition comprises at least a C2-C4 alkanol medium optionally with no more than 2% water and at least one organosilicone small molecule with at least one pendant and/or terminal alkoxysilyl group and at least one pendant and/or terminal organoamine group; 
 The film forming composition comprises at least a C2-C4 alkanol medium optionally with no more than 2% water with one or more microparticle pigments and/or color bodies dispersed in the medium with a dispersant and a binder comprising a linear silicone polymer having at least two pendant and/or terminal α,β unsaturated alkenoyloxy groups and a linker comprising a linear silicone polymer having at least two organoamine groups and at least one alkoxysilyl group. 
 
     
     
         12 . A keratin coloring composition comprising:
 A pretreatment composition comprising a compatible medium and at least one organosilicone small molecule with at least one pendant and/or terminal alkoxysilyl group and/or at least one pendant and/or terminal organoamine group; and   A film forming composition comprising a compatible medium with one or more microparticle pigments and/or color bodies optionally coated with the organosilicone small molecule and suspended in dispersant; a binder comprising a silicone polymer having pendant and/or terminal α,β unsaturated alkenoyloxy group(s); and a linker comprising a silicone polymer having pendant and/or terminal organoamine groups and optional terminal alkoxysilyl groups wherein each of the binder and linker independently is linear or branched, preferably linear.   
     
     
         13 . A keratin coloring composition comprising a composite film of the pretreatment and film forming compositions of  claim 12  coating the surfaces of primed and/or deep cleaned keratin fibers prepared according to the method of  claim 8 . 
     
     
         14 . A color coating on primed and/or deep cleaned keratin fibers comprising a dried, cured keratin coloring composition of  claim 13 . 
     
     
         15 . A method for removal from the primed and/or deep cleaned keratin fibers the color coating of  claim 14  comprising contacting the coating with a removal composition comprising an organic hydrocarbon medium of at least dodecyl benzene sulfonic acid and isodecane.