Device and method for generating a standing surfable wave

Abstract

A device for generating a standing surfable wave, wherein the device is embodied in the form of a channel with two flow-limiting side walls and a bottom of the water body situated between them, wherein the depth of the bottom of the water body increases by means of a step to form a stilling basin and the bottom of the stilling basin is positioned below the level of the bottom of the water body, wherein a ramp is formed on the bottom of the water body before the stilling basin in the flow direction, which ramp extends away from the bottom of the water body, and in the stilling basin, a ramp-like flow body is embodied on the bottom of the stilling basin.

1 . A device for generating a standing surfable wave, comprising:
 a channel with two flow-limiting side walls and a bottom of a water body situated between the two flow-limiting side walls, wherein the depth of the bottom of the water body increases by a step to form a stilling basin and a bottom of the stilling basin is positioned below a level of the bottom of the water body, wherein a ramp is formed on the bottom of the water body before the stilling basin in a flow direction, and the ramp extends away from the bottom of the water body, and in the stilling basin, a ramp-like flow body is embodied on the bottom of the stilling basin.   
     
     
         2 . The device according to  claim 1 , further comprising a gate or a bypass for guiding water past the ramp and the stilling basin—or both a gate and a bypass—are positioned upstream of the ramp to regulate a volume of water and/or to regulate a flow velocity. 
     
     
         3 . The device according to  claim 2 , wherein the gate is positioned essentially transversely to the flow direction in a body of water, wherein a distance between the gate and the ramp is set to 1.5-5 m. 
     
     
         4 . The device according to  claim 1 , wherein the flow body in the stilling basin is positioned in such a way that water, which flows over the ramp and forms the wave, strikes the flow body essentially perpendicularly, at an angle of 90°+25°
 or 
 wherein the flow body is ramp-like and has a front flank in the flow direction, which is inclined toward the bottom of the stilling basin, wherein an inclination is set according to a flow pattern of the water striking the bottom of the stilling basin and is between 15 and 55°. 
 
     
     
         5 . The device according to  claim 1 , wherein the flow body extends over a partial width of the stilling basin, extends over an entire width of the stilling basin, or slopes down to the bottom of the stilling basin toward the side walls that delimit the stilling basin. 
     
     
         6 . The device according to  claim 1 , wherein the ramp has a control surface situated toward a front in the flow direction, wherein the control surface extends from the bottom of the water body to a top of the ramp in a form of a flat surface or an at least partially concave curve or a brachistochrone curve
 or   wherein the ramp is positioned in such a way that the top of the ramp is aligned with a step that increases the depth of the bottom of the water body to a depth of the stilling basin.   
     
     
         7 . The device according to  claim 2 , wherein the gate is a flap gate having gate flaps, which pivot toward a surface of a body of water and pivot into the body of water in order to limit an effective flow cross-section of the body of water from the bottom of the water body to free rear edges of the gate flaps. 
     
     
         8 . The device according to  claim 2 , wherein the gate has a gate base plate with a rear edge in the flow direction that has one or more gate flaps arranged on the rear edge in an articulated and pivotable fashion
 or   wherein a gate flap or a plurality of gate flaps are arranged so that the gate flap or the plurality of gate flaps can be actuated and pivoted individually, wherein the gate base plate rests on the two flow-limiting side walls or is positioned between the two flow-limiting side walls extending across a body of water transversely to the flow direction or is supported with support columns on the bottom of the water body or rests on the two flow-limiting side walls or is positioned between the two flow-limiting side walls and is supported on the bottom of the water body.   
     
     
         9 . The device according to  claim 2 , wherein one or more gate flaps is a displacement body with which water displacement can be increased in a zone near the one or more gate flaps, wherein the gate has a gate base plate that extends parallel to a plateau of a wall element and the one or more gate flaps are positioned to act with a rear edge of the one or more gate flaps on a body of water downstream of an interrupting edge in a region of a concave rear wall. 
     
     
         10 . The device according to  claim 2 , wherein in a region of the gate, the bottom of the water body is formed with a section in which a gradient is greater than in a region of a rest of the bottom of the water body before and after the gate
 or   wherein the gate is elevated on a wall element that is formed by the bottom of the water body, wherein the wall element rises a little above the bottom of the water body with a front wall that transitions into a plateau on which the gate is elevated or across which the gate extends, wherein the plateau has a gradient corresponding to a gradient of the bottom of the water body or has no gradient, wherein at a rear edge in the flow direction, the wall element forms an interrupting edge, which extends transversely to the flow direction, and then extends with a convexly curved rear wall into a section of the bottom of the water body, whose depth can be lower than the bottom of the water body before the wall element.   
     
     
         11 . The device according to  claim 1 , further comprising a displacement mechanism positioned upstream of the ramp on the bottom of the water body and connected to the bottom of the water body, wherein the displacement mechanism has a displacement body, which can be moved into the flow and which, in order to avoid being overflowed by surge water, is provided with a displacement plate, which protrudes significantly beyond the body and slopes downward with a gradient toward a side facing away from the current. 
     
     
         12 . A method for generating a surfable wave, comprising positioning a ramp in a section of a natural or artificial body of water on a bottom of a water body essentially transversely to a flow direction, wherein the ramp piles up water to form a wave, providing a stilling basin after the ramp, which has a stilling basin bottom that is positioned deeper than the bottom of the water body upstream of the ramp, and positioning a flow body for modulating the wave in a region in which the water flows into the stilling basin, wherein the flow body for modulating the wave is positioned in such a way that the water strikes perpendicularly against a front flank of the flow body
 or   guiding the water via a bypass that extends past the ramp and the stilling basin in order to regulate a volume of water or to regulate a speed of the water flowing over the ramp, or to regulate both the volume of water and the speed of the water flowing over the ramp, before the ramp, or positioning a gate before the ramp or providing both a bypass and a gate to regulate the volume of and the water speed of the water.   
     
     
         13 . The method according to  claim 12 , comprising using the gate to adjust an effective flow cross-section of the water between two flow-limiting side walls and the bottom of the water body and an edge of the gate, wherein the gate is used to change the water flow from a flowing motion to a shooting flow motion and to change a transition from a Froude number with a value less than 1 to a Froude number with a value greater than 1. 
     
     
         14 . The method according to  claim 13 , wherein a distance between the gate and the ramp is set to 1.5-5 m or an inclination of a front flank of the flow body is fixed or variably adjustable, wherein depending on a flow pattern of the water, the inclination is set to 15-55°. 
     
     
         15 . The method according to  claim 13 , comprising using the gate, with a gate base plate and with a gate flap joined in articulated fashion to a rear edge of the gate base plate, wherein the gate flap has the edge that can be pivoted down onto a body of water and into the body of water, wherein the gate base plate is parallel to the bottom of the water body or inclined toward the bottom of the water body in the flow direction so that when the gate flaps are producing a damming effect, the gate base plate dams up an incoming surge water to above a level of a headwater level
 or   wherein the ramp accelerates the incoming water with a control surface situated toward a front in the flow direction, wherein from the bottom of the water body to a top of the ramp, the control surface is a flat surface or an at least partially concave curve or a brachistochrone curve.