Oligopeptides and their use in cosmetics

Abstract

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of oligopeptides, cosmetic preparations which comprise such oligopeptides as well as certain oligopeptide derivatives themselves.

1. A cosmetic composition comprising oligopeptides with the structure of formula (I)
   R1-[AA] n -R2  (I)
 
 wherein [AA] comprises at least 4 consecutive amino acids, which are identical compared to 4 consecutive amino acids of SEQ ID No. 1, 
 wherein n is the total number of amino acids in the oligopeptide, 
 wherein n=4, 
 wherein R1 is linked to the amino-terminal part of [AA] and is selected from the group consisting of
 d) —H, 
 e) a linear saturated or unsaturated or branched saturated or unsaturated acyl group having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, wherein said acyl group is optionally functionalised by a —OH, —SH, —COOH or —CONH 2  group, and 
 f) a sterol or a sphingolipid group which is joined to the amino terminal part of [AA] via a bifunctional linker, and 
 
 wherein R2 is linked to the C═O group of the carboxy terminal part of [AA] and is selected from the group consisting of
 a) —OH, 
 b) —NH 2 , 
 c) is a linear saturated or unsaturated or branched saturated or unsaturated alkoxy group having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, wherein said acyl group is optionally functionalised by a —OH, —SH, —COOH or CONH 2  group, and 
 d) a sterol or a sphingolipid group. 
 
 
     
     
       2. The composition of  claim 1 , wherein [AA] comprises at least 4 consecutive amino acids identical to amino acids no. 1 to 15 of SEQ ID No. 1. 
     
     
       3. The composition of  claim 1 , wherein R1=H or a linear saturated or unsaturated or branched saturated or unsaturated acyl group having 1 to 12 carbon atoms. 
     
     
       4. The composition of  claim 1 , wherein the oligopeptides are present in a concentration of from 0.05 to 500 ppm. 
     
     
       5. A cosmetic composition comprising oligopeptides with the structure of formula (I)
   R1-[AA] n -R2  (I)
 
 wherein [AA] comprises at least 4 consecutive amino acids, which are identical compared to 4 consecutive amino acids of SEQ ID No. 1, 
 wherein n is the total number of amino acids in the oligopeptide, 
 wherein n=4, 
 wherein R1 is linked to the amino-terminal part of [AA] and is selected from the group consisting of
 i. —H, 
 ii. a linear saturated or unsaturated or branched saturated or unsaturated acyl group having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, which may be functionalised by a —OH, —SH, —COOH or —CONH 2  group, or 
 iii. a sterol or a sphingolipid group which is joined to the amino terminal part of [AA] via a bifunctional linker, 
 
 wherein R2 is linked to the C═O group of the carboxy terminal part of [AA] and is selected from the group consisting of
 a) —OH, 
 b) —NH 2 , 
 c) a linear saturated or unsaturated or branched saturated or unsaturated alkoxy group having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, which may be functionalised by a —OH, —SH, —COOH or —CONH 2  group, and 
 d) a sterol or a sphingolipid group, 
 
 with the proviso that if R1 is —H, R2 is not —OH; or that if R2 is —OH, R1 is not —H; and 
 with the further proviso that if R1 is —H, R2 is selected from the group consisting of
 b) —NH 2 , 
 c) a linear saturated or unsaturated or branched saturated or unsaturated alkoxy group having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or 
 d) a sterol or a sphingolipid group. 
 
 
     
     
       6. The composition of  claim 1 , wherein said oligopeptides are present in an amount effective to stimulate the growth of human keratinocytes in-vitro. 
     
     
       7. The composition of  claim 1 , wherein said at least 4 consecutive amino acids is Pro-Pro-Tyr-Leu (SEQ ID No. 7). 
     
     
       8. A method for strengthening the cutaneous barrier of human skin comprising contacting the skin with the cosmetic composition of  claim 1  in an amount effective to stimulate the growth and differentiation of human keratinocytes. 
     
     
       9. A method for strengthening the cutaneous barrier of human skin comprising contacting the skin with the cosmetic composition of  claim 1  in an amount effective to stimulate syndecan-1 synthesis. 
     
     
       10. A method for strengthening firmness, epidermal cohesion, and dermo-epidermal junction of human skin comprising contacting the skin with the cosmetic composition of  claim 1  in an amount effective to stimulate the growth and differentiation of human keratinoctyes. 
     
     
       11. A method for strengthening firmness, epidermal cohesion, and dermo-epidermal junction of human skin comprising contacting the skin with the cosmetic composition of  claim 1  in an amount effective to stimulate syndecan-1 synthesis.